When the shingles are being used, lay them over the valley flashing, trim the ends to the chalk line and nail the shingles at least 50 mm (2) back from the chalk line. Cut a 50 mm (2) triangle off the leading corner to direct water into the valley and embed the valley end of each shingle into a 75 mm (3) band of asphalt plastic cement.
Set up metal flashings where shingles meet walls or chimneys, too. Ice and water protector membranes work well to flash and help protect around skylights, dormers, turbines and other difficult roofing locations. Apply flashing products in show with the shingle installation treatment, with both the flashing and the shingles arranged to collaborate to secure around the joint areas - installing shingles.
When applying the new shingles, each shingle course will be covered by an action flashing. Metal Step Flashing Pieces There are two simple guidelines to follow: Each flashing must overlap the one listed below by at least 75 mm (3 ), however not show up listed below the shingle leading lap. Imbed each action flashing in a 75 mm (3) large application of asphaltic plastic cement, and nail in place.
The metal step flashing pieces are rectangular in shape and style, approximately 250 mm (10) long and at least 50 mm (2) larger than the face of the shingle being used. For instance, when using metal flashing with shingles with a common 143 mm (5 5/8) exposure (such as standard 3-tab shingles), the size of the flashing will be 250 mm x 200 mm (10 x 8).
Keep in mind: Other action flashing sizes are likewise acceptable. For IKO's Cambridge shingle, with its larger 5 7/8 direct exposure, a 10 x 8 flashing piece is still ideal, since the 8 measurement is still a minimum of 2 larger than the shingle's direct exposure dimension. However, when flashing Crowne Slate, with its much larger 10 exposure, the flashing piece would need to be 10 x 12.
Put it so the tab of completion shingle covers it totally. Secure the horizontal flange to the roofing deck utilizing two nails. Do not secure the flashing piece to the vertical wall. This will permit the flashing piece to move individually of any differential growth and contraction that may occur in between the roofing deck and the wall.
Ensure that the tab of the shingle in the 2nd course will cover it completely. Protect the horizontal flange to the roofing. The second and being successful courses will follow with completion shingles flashed as in preceding courses. Once everything that goes beneath the shingles has actually been effectively prepared and set up, it's lastly time to find out how to shingle a roofing system.
First before you lay the field shingles (" field" referring to the big area of roofing within the borders of eaves, ridge and rakes) it is necessary to install a preparatory course of starter shingles which are specifically manufactured for that purpose. But, even if you style your own on-site by cutting standard shingles to size, both serve crucial functions at the roofing system's eave.
Expert specialists typically recommend and utilize starter strips along rake edges in order to yield a straight edge from which all the field courses can begin. Furthermore, these starter strips enhance the roof system's wind-resistance at the rake. It's important to follow the producer's instructions for the particular roof shingle because not all shingles have the same exposure (the part of the shingle that's visible when installed), offset (the lateral distance between joints in succeeding courses sometimes called 'stagger' or 'edge-to-edge spacing') and/or nail positioning.
You must place nails in the correct place and drive them flush with, however not cutting into, the shingle. Nailing the shingles correctly is important to the roof system's wind-resistance. Correct nail positioning is also a requirement for the shingles' minimal service warranty coverage. If you've chosen closed valleys, they are completed as shingle courses technique and run through the valley. installing shingles.
As shingles are installed on the adjoining roofing system location, completion of each course of shingles is trimmed (cut) 2 back of the valley centerline. You've nailed in the last field shingle and you can see the finish line from here. Well done! In this case, the surface line is the hip and ridge topping. house shingles.
Instead, private ridge cap shingles are used to straddle the ridge and shed water down either slope. There are numerous ridge cap shingles readily available on the marketplace however, when again, the treatment for installing them is based on the same fundamental concept of overlapping. For hips, start at the bottom and work upslope.